Schlagwort: 3d printing

BEFORE YOU PRINT
Three parts need to be printed in Vase Mode / Spiral Printing:
The LED Strip Holder, Diffuser, and Shade.
-The Shade should be printed with 3-4 bottom layers, which become the top of the lamp.
-The LED Strip Holder and Diffuser need to be printed with no top or bottom layers, they’re basically completely hollow, single wall prints which slot into the lines in the Base.

Hope this helps. 🙂

UPDATE Feb 7, 2021
-Added versions of the Hex Shade, Diffuser, and LED Holder that can be printed on a printer with a Z limit of 180mm.
-Added new versions of the shades that are oriented in the intended print orientation.
-Updated the Spiral Shade to make printing more reliable.

UPDATE Jan 11, 2021
-Added a new variant of the base with greater tolerance to help with fit of the various vase mode parts. I also made a test fit print so you can print a small part to make sure it all fits before printing the whole base.

If using Cura to slice, go to the Shell settings, and set Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion to -0.12 This will help make sure the first layer squish doesn’t close up the slots where the shades fit.

~Original Post~

I designed this as a fun little project using extra parts I had lying around and am pretty happy with the results!

I’ve added a few outer shade designs I’ve created, but I’d like to see some of the ideas and designs you can come up with! 😀

Please check the Print Settings section below for printing instructions.

I used an ESP8266 as the controller and 6 strips of WS2812B 60/m.
Each strip has 14 LEDs which is what fits in the design as is.
However, this should work with any LED strip that is 10mm or less in width.
Total length of LED strip you’ll need is about 1.5m.

You will need a 5v DC power supply that can supply at least 2 Amps.

Here’s some Amazon links for the lights and ESP8266 I’m using:

WS2812B – 5m / 16.4ft 60pixels/meter
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individual-Addressable-300Pixels-Non-Waterproof/dp/B088FJF9XD/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=ws2812b&qid=1610725714&sr=8-7&th=1

3 Pack, ESP8266
https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Internet-Development-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07HF44GBT/ref=pd_bxgy_2/132-6001542-3692506?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HF44GBT&pd_rd_r=4145d663-e58b-495a-af4d-0ae73e83f5d5&pd_rd_w=g7Qp0&pd_rd_wg=iXfr3&pf_rd_p=f325d01c-4658-4593-be83-3e12ca663f0e&pf_rd_r=VEZM554A4H005EKKB69Z&psc=1&refRID=VEZM554A4H005EKKB69Z

The ESP8266 is running WLED:
https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED

Here’s a great tutorial on how to set up the ESP8266 for this, and similar projects.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d29SBWA4Qs

Once everything is set up, you’ll need to go into WLED and add 6 total segments.
For me, every other segment has the „Reverse Direction“ box checked since I’ve daisy chained the data wire. This ensures all the effects and patterns show right-side up.

Both the WS2812B LEDs and the ESP8266 run on a 5 volt supply. For the 84 LEDs in my version, a 2 Amp supply should be plenty to power them all at full brightness (although the WLED allows for setting a max current draw if needed).

I didn’t have a 5v supply that could provide enough current so I used a 12v supply and put it through a little buck regulator module to drop it to 5v. You won’t need this if you have a 5v power supply.

The little red PCB in the photo is just a little power distro board I made up, mostly for me to practice with crimping and those connectors. Definitely not needed. You can easily just connect all the negative and positive wires together and heat shrink or tape them up.

I hope you enjoy this and I get to see some Makes of this project.
Feel free to leave a comment with any questions and I’ll try my best to help!

improved version with larger head for better wire holding

This Thing is my version of Soldering cross Tweezers! Simply print the long base, 4 handles, assemble, and you get a super versatile wire holder for your soldering station!

This is remixed from „ty10y“ ’s remix of „Joo“

no support needed

spool holder :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3326599

While this isn’t strictly a remix, I wanted to give „idig3d“ credit for the inspiration. I created a soldering helping hands http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635453 but when I saw idig3d’s version, I liked the simplicity and faster build time. I thought I’d create one that was similar but had additional grooves and a tapered top. Here is my interpretation.

Note: In the pictures, it looks like it’s floating a bit. That’s because I put little adhesive rubber feet so it won’t slide along my workspace while soldering.

I have recently created this helping hands as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757071

Please share comments and makes!

Check out my other designs! https://www.thingiverse.com/mistertech/designs

This design has been stolen and sold on Ebay and other commercial sites. Thingiverse Tips are appreciated

If you do not have a 3D printer, consider purchasing a printed model from me on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Fingers/132752109640?hash=item1ee8a47048:g:X5gAAOSw-ypbe5Sp

Print single wall section and posts vertically with brim…paint with peuter Rub-N-Buff and sponge brush

Also available at:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0AxX0mX75oe

Update:

Added a corner section and finish with Pewter Rub-N-Buff with a sponge brush
Also added corner and inline fence posts which have slots to attach to the wall sections.

https://www.amazon.com/AMACO-76380A-Metallic-Finish-0-5-Fluid/dp/B00081HYFU

This clip was design to fix/repair/secure the broken or loose tab of a RJ45 Ethernet connector and avoid crimping. Designed to prevent from moving, wiggling, falling from the connector and easy to install.

UPDATE v.4.9 | 28/01/2021
Added the 3 following files which have slightly wider body (0.25mm) than 4.7 version and small upgrade on the tip.
1. „4.9.nf.supported“ (extension) comes „with supports“ for the ones are not very familiar with. But I still prefer S3D’s supports.
2. „4.9.nf“ (extension) with „no fillet“, to make it easier printing with supports.
3. „4.9“ (extension) with fillet, for „smooth edges“. On FDM printers isn’t that much noticeable.

UPDATE v.4.7 | 01/01/2021
Added another version with „no fillet“ („.nf“ extension), actually it has sharp edges to make it easier printing with supports.

Printing
Suggested printing orientation is the one as the files are stored, why?
Printing the tab from the base to the tip in X-Y axis makes it stronger and more flexible since its printed in one continued string.
If you change the orientation with the tip on top then tab’s base will start from the bottom and builds up while the Z axis is sticking the rest of it till the tip. With this orientation the tab has more possibilities to brake since Z layers don’t bond the same as the method I suggested.
*If you have another solution let me know.

Supports
Supports needed and you need to be experienced with good slicer settings. Also attention needed when removing them from the actual print.
Or you can print the file with „4.8.nf.supported“ (extension) which comes with supports. But I still prefer S3D’s supports.

Installation note:
1.Before install the „printed clip“ check the left overs of the broken tab. If it is too long the tip of the „printed clip“ might not click underneath the left-over. So, I suggest to leave a length of the broken tab about „0,5-1,0mm“. If the broken tad left-over is to small or cuted flash then the printed one might not click and hopefully that would work well, haven’t tested that scenario.
2.Follow the sketches to install the „printed clip“, also while sliding in if you find it a bit hard some wiggling might help.

*You may call it the „ScorpioNet“ or „Devil’s Network Tail“!

• Designed in Inventor

If you enjoy and want to support my work you can donate me on the link below,
Thank you!

Cura Infill Patterns Display Models

This is a collection of Cura Infill Pattern Displays with models for 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, and 50% infill density. Cura project files (.3mf) are included for each of the densities for easy printing setup. The project files have all of the necessary support blockers.

I saw ccarbs 20% density model (remix source) and liked the idea, but it would require 120 grams and take 9 hours 46 minutes to print with draft settings. Ain’t nobody got time for that! And the amount of material is even more of a concern.

So I designed my own model from scratch for 15% density, which is what I typically print at. And since it was easy to change the density on the model and the density in the print settings I made models and project files for each of the commonly used densities in case anyone wants one of those. These models require about 1/4 the material and print time as ccarbs original model.

The first picture is a photo of a printed model but all others are rendered images that I made by converting the G-code from Cura to STLs using Voxelizer and then rendering the sliced STL models with Blender.

2021-01-22 update: added an OpenSCAD customizer in case anyone wants to create one for another density or make other modifications to the model.

Cura Project Files

The Cura project files are all the same except for the model itself, which indicates the density and the infill density setting specified in the profile. They all use the draft profile with the layer heights set to 0.2 mm and the number of top and bottom layers set to 0. The model has an overlap-modifying cutting mesh support blocker sized 136x88x2 at [0,0,0] with 4 top layers and 4 bottom layers specified. The model also has an overlap-modifying cutting mesh support blocker for each infill pattern with the appropriate infill pattern specified and are sized 19x19x11 at [X,Y,2] where X=[-48,-24,0,24,48] and Y=[-24,0,24].

After loading the project file, select your printer instead of the printer loaded in the project file (an Ultimaker Original Dual Extrusion).

The model and support blockers are all configured to use extruder 1. If you need to change them to use extruder 2 on your printer, you can select them all by CTRL clicking each of them in the object list and then set them all at once to use extruder 2 by pressing CTRL/2.

Change any settings you want in your print settings and make sure that the infill density matches what’s specified on the model.

Material and Time Estimates

The estimated amount of filament and time to print on my Flashforge Creator Pro using the draft profile are listed below. The time will be different for your printer and settings. I printed my 15% model using my usual settings (slower print speed of 40 mm/sec) and it took 4 hours 20 minutes.

15% density model: 33g, 10.92m, 2h47m
20% density model: 34g, 11.55m, 2h53m
25% density model: 36g, 12.16m, 2h59m
30% density model: 38g, 12.72m, 3h05m
35% density model: 40g, 13.38m, 3h12m
40% density model: 42g, 14.00m, 3h17m
45% density model: 44g, 14.62m, 3h23m
50% density model: 45g, 15.19m, 3h31m

Tip: Three top and bottom layers should be sufficient for the base. You can shorten the print time and save about 4 grams of material by changing the # of top and # of bottom layers to 3 in the large support blocker that encompasses the base.

Some of My Designs

Click an image below (opens in a new tab) or go to my designs page and see them all.

If you see some thing that you like , please click the ^Like button and turn that heart red .

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
 

Thingiverse user pcoulbourne asked me if I could extend my flexing battery holders with integrated spring project to also support multi-cell compartments which house 2 or 3 cells in series and are held with a single plastic spring.

With more than one cell in a row the pushing force of the spring is prone to lift the batteries up at their joining point and push them out of the compartment. Also longer cells are more prone to cause warping. The solution to these problems was to add cutouts at the center of each cell to allow a better grip when manipulating the cells (and thereby reducing the warping!) and add an inside overhang between the cutouts to prevent the batteries from popping out.

The included fully parametrized SCAD file is an extension to the initial version, thus it can as well be used to generate all the single cell compartment battery holders from the initial project. However, the STLs included here are only the ones with 2- and 3-cell compartments for some of the more common cell types. I started by including ready-to print STLs for AA, AAA, C and 18650 type cells, others might follow. But of course you can easily generate multi-cell holders for any other cell type yourself by adding the corresponding module calls in the OpenScad source file.

Note that when having 2 or 3 cells secured by a single plastic spring, even small variations of the cell length may become critical, since the differences are dupli- or triplicated. Small differences can be compensated to some extent by varying the thickness of the pole contacts.

I suggest to load and unload the batteries from the plus end of the compartment (opposite side of the spring) and slide the cells there as showing in one of the pictures. Pushing the batteries through the overhang generates stress on the side walls of the case, especially for the smaller cells.

For any further details, please check out the initial version of this project.

Made this privacy cover for my Logitech C525 webcam. It consists from two parts and does not require any screws or additional materials, just print.

The original camera cap didn’t stay opened on my print.
So I designed a tighter one that can be opened wider so it stays open thanks to gravity.